Saturday, December 8, 2018

Guaymas, Mexico - May, 2017

May, 2018
WE MADE IT!!!

Finally, we have arrived in Guaymas!
Six months and 21 days after first arriving in Barra we have brought EM to the Sea of Cortez!

We left Puerto Vallarta April (sometime) and headed out past Punta Mita to the ocean. We wanted to get the reefing lines set up in case we hit heavy weather. We quickly realized that EM had NO reefing lines. The system was in place but the reefing lines were missing. Okay, no problem, we’ll tie her off at the foot and clew and see how that goes. Well, that didn’t go well due to the main sail track that had been broken off 6 inches from the bottom. This meant we can’t
properly reef the sail without damaging the sail. So we reluctantly turned around and headed back to Punta Mita for the night to figure out a solution.
Why was this the first time we noticed this? Well ,it had only been two weeks since we started sailing EM, all the work to this point was on other systems. And we assumed she had a reefing system.
We rigged up a short term solution, with a Shay made soft shackle.

So the next day we left again, this time with BULA, headed to Mazatlan with a side trip to Isla Isabel.
We got about 5 miles out when we heard a distress call from JAKE. They were without engine or electrical power about 10 miles off shore and in need of a tow back to PV.

We headed out to their position to see how we could help, although I did not offer a tow. Towing can be dangerous for both boats and I didn’t feel comfortable doing this.
About an hour later we arrived at their position, meanwhile we had put out a call on the VHF for assistance from the fleet. Our VHF rocks. We can pick up transmission sometimes from a 100 miles away. We were able to get some help lined up by the time we arrived at JAKE. Turns out they had an electrical issue that caused an almost fire aboard. They had a cell phone and a hand held VHF and that was it. We relayed their position and instructions and waited until a plan was in place. They waved us on when a plan was in place and as we sailed away we saw a panga arrive to tow them back to port. It’s good to have friends around.
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Yes, that is a sign for NO POOPING
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Chacala harbor with EM on far left
PIZZA! on the beach with BULA
Onward we sailed to Chacala, our first destination. It was 30 NM (nautical miles) and we arrived late in the day. BULA had already anchored and so they picked us up in their dinghy and we went ashore for pizza and a few supplies. It was a pretty little anchorage and nice beach, but the swell was not so fun. We barely slept. So the next day we upped anchor and headed on to San Blas, 20 miles north.
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The San Blas entrance is known to be less than fun due to sand bars and tidal influence, so we chose to anchor in Manachen Bay, just south of San Blas. It was a very nice bay with a sandy bottom (easy anchoring), and a short 1/2 mile row to shore.
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The next day we went ashore to get provisions and find the Jungle Tour. This area is known for an amazing estuary that is home to crocks, birds and carrot cake. Not kidding about the carrot cake. We must have walked past a dozen road side stands announcing their products of fame. The walk was only about 1.5 miles and we found the
pangas that rode tourist thru the
mangroves. We decided to spend the
$30 and take the tour.
It was a blast. We drove thru a tunnel
under the mangroves where we spotted herons, and all sorts of exciting birds
(I’m told). We continued on for another
hour, through the estuary, weaving
around the trees and following the river
inland to the hills. Shay spied four birds
she had never seen. (A vert good birding day,)
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At the end of the trip was a spring with water so clear and cool you could see the bottom details and all the critters swimming along. The return trip was fun as we sped around the curves back to the docks. It was well worth the time.
From there we caught a collectivo passing by to the town of San Blas. At the center of town we disembarked and found our way to an open air market for fresh produce. Much walking, some lunch and a quick taxi ride back to the dinghy and we were home by afternoon sans banana bread.

I went swimming for a bit, but thinking about the crocodiles and the less than clear water had me sticking close to the boat. We left the next morning for Isla Isabel 38NM away. And what a great sail!
It was so much fun to sail to an island in the pacific. To be out of site of land and then to smell the island before we could see it, and watch the birds guide us in. We chose to anchor in the east anchorage next to TROVITA about a 1/4 mile from the beach. It was tight quarters and we set out an anchor buoy due to the rocky bottom. Which was good as we ended up wrapping our chain around a rock.

Isabel in the distance!!
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A great rock to snorkel around
It was evening by the time we arrived, so we toasted to a great day and went to bed early. Its a very tiring lifestyle. Constantly working out, one way or another. But the good kind of tired most of the time. The next morning Shay rowed to shore to watch blue footed boobies. I slept late and then went swimming twice that day. That’s when I realized the anchor chain was around the rock. I tried to free dive but it was too deep. So I tried to use the boat hook and free dive but only ended up dropping the boat hook. Sigh.
Later Mark on TROVITA was able to retrieve the boat hook. I think we need a floating boat hook.
The snorkeling was FANTASTIC! Wow, wow wow. I spend 3 hours a day for the next 2 days exploring around the rocks and bay. I haven’t seen the diversity in over a decade. Every swim I spied new fishies and animals, 2 types of turtles, 3 types of rays, over 20 fish species, an eel, a giant sea worm, schools of Jack and angel fish, giant parrot fish, Mahi Mahi, on and on. I was in my happy place. So I convinced Shay to spend an additional day.
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Isla Isabel was one of Jaques Cousteau’s favorite places and now I know why with the diversity of bird life and sea life he must have been happy also. I can only imagine what it was like 30 years ago.
After two blissful days we set sail in a southerly hoping to blow us north to Mazatlan. We left late afternoon planning on a 2 day sail. The evening sail was spectacular as we pulled away from the Isla and sailed into the sunset, literally, on our way north.
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For 2 days we motored and sailed. We are really starting to get the hang of passages. They take a toll on our bodes and sleep of course, but the rewards are wonderful. Watching the sunrise, the sunset and moonrise, sailing in moonbeams is sublime.
We entered fog as we approached Mazatlan on the morning of the 27th. It wasn’t too bad and still far enough away from boat traffic that it was still safe, although eerie.
We arrived at the Mazatlan breakwater too early to enter so killed a couple hours sailing around until slack tide. Mazatlan has a small and nasty entrance bordered by rock walls, sand bars and shallows of 9ft that create large swells. The best time to enter is slack or high tide. We had timed our trip to arrive at slack tide but were early. I was super nervous. Entrances and docking are the two things that really make me anxious. So we took our time and lined up with the entrance buoys and went for it. OMG, I almost peed my pants. EM surfed about 4 breakers through the entrance while I tried to steer her in the right directions on top of the waves. We ran the engine at high RPM’s just to have enough power for control. Surfing a 35,000 pound boat through rocky breakwaters about 100 feet apart was a heart pounding experience. We did great though and made it into the harbor and docked in the first available space. Once we were tied up, I could take a moment to breathe. Too early for tequila so had to settle for a wee lay down.
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Approaching Mazatlan
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Caught a baby tuna
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Shay made tuna sushi!
We made it to Mazatlan!
We didn’t like Mazatlan.
After checking into the marina and port captain (It’s like when you go thru customs at the airport), we were able to hop in our van - that Shay had brought up before we left PV - and go get food! Fresh produce doesn’t last long so after a week away, salads and fruit become treasured items. After checking the weather we realized there was another southerly for the next few days, the perfect time to head north to Guaymas. Typically the winds come from the NW and barrel down the sea causing large swells and challenging sailing conditions. When the weather looks good, you take it. So we decide to leave the next day after a good nights sleep. We were at the fuel dock at 7:30am so we could transit the entrance at high tide. (Already, I was getting nervous)
While at the fuel dock I noticed the engine panel wasn’t working. No tachometer, no oil temp or coolant temp, or even battery voltage. Damn. We could’t leave without a working engine panel.
So I set to work troubleshooting. Taking apart the panel and checking the voltage at the instruments did nothing. So I crawled into the still very warm engine pit and within a few minutes found a ground wire that had come disconnected from the alternator. Since we didn’t have the right size terminal to put a new one on, Shay had to pound out the old one so we could reuse it. This worked well and the panel was on. We were back in business. By this time the wind had picked up and was pushing us against the dock. With a large and expensive catamaran on the dock in front of us our easy out was blocked, which meant we had to back out. (Gasp!)
EM does not back up. She kinda moves sideways in a slight backwards way. She is very unpredictable backing up, especially with a current and wind in opposing directions. I had to put my big girl panties on and just get on with it. So we did and almost hit the cat, but they fended us off and off we went to navigate the entrance.
And there is BULA! passing us as they just made it in on the slack tide! We wave and throw hugs, bummed that we missed them.
And through the entrance at 2200 RPM’s and it’s done! Piece of cake.
It’s now 9am.
And I need a nap.
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Up goes the sails and off we go headed to Guaymas. This is almost a 500 NM passage. We expect it take 3-4 days. Our longest passage yet. We are excited and ready to go.
The sailing is great for the first 7 hours and then the wind dies, the sea is a lake and we have to turn on the engine. We end up motor sailing a majority of the way. This is tedious, and fuel wasteful and loud and makes it hard to sleep. I’m glad we have enough fuel, as long as we get in a good 8 hours of sail time in the next few days we should be okay.
The days pass by punctuated by wildlife sightings or any sign of life really. A lone fisherman, a pelican, turtle or jumping shark becomes a highlight of the day. The nights are long. We get the speaker out so we can jam to music during our 3 hour watches. Many watch shifts ended with nothing to report. No boats, no nothing, just the sea and the sky. And the motor running. Every 12 hours of run time we have to turn off the engine, let it cool so I can check
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our ongoing transmission leak, V-drive and the shaft set screws that like to find their way to the bilge. But Helga is doing fine.
The jib is unfurled at the slightest breeze and then furled back in as she doesn’t help much when there is not more than 7 or 8 knots. In and out. All day and night. The second day we passed Topolobomplo. It was early in the day I spotted a few ships in the distance. It turned out to be a fishing fleet of 16 boats complete with large processing ships tagging along. They were in a semi circle around us before we knew it. So we kept our course since we were sailing, and they moved around us slowly. This was a tad nerve wracking for me. Having that many boats all heading in your general direction is unnerving. Turns out their fishing practices caused the wild life to pass by us so we saw whales, seals, dolphins, turtles all within a couple hours. It was an amazing sight.
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On the third night Shay woke me early from off watch due to a building sea and wind. She said we hit 6.8 knots. It was about 5am. The wind was coming from the NW and waves were from the west AND rollers from the north. The north swell was large, maybe 25 feet. We were headed in the wrong direction, out to sea. So we timed our turn between sets of waves and managed to head east back to shore. We decided to run for Yavaros since Topolobomplo was a 100 miles south and Guaymas 125 miles north. We were 35 miles away from the entrance to Yavaros.
The swell was so large and coming from both directions that I ended up hand steering while Shay sat facing the stern, yelling out when a big set of northern swell were coming so I could position the boat south. It took about 5 hours to get through the worst of it.
There is no lets stop and take a break in this type of situation. It was something you just had to get through. Once we were 10 miles from shore the swell lessened and I could take quick breaks to pee or get water. We ran another 5 hours to the Yavaros breakwater. Although we almost found the shoal, we managed to find our way to the entrance buoy and another hour entered the estuary. Dolphins greeted us as we found our way past the fishing fleet and processing plant to 20 feet of water, promptly dropped the hook, got a little too drunk and fell into a coma sleep for 16 hours. It had taken us over 10 hours straight, on barely any sleep from the night before.
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We woke late the next day to find
that sparrows had taken up
nesting in our cockpit.
It was a beautiful estuary, but the
town had no services. We stayed
for 4 nights while the NW wind
blew. We had a little cell reception and were able to get weather reports but that’s about it. We slept, ate, and recovered. When the wind shifted it would put us on the sandbar for low tide so we moved the boat once to deeper water - our first grounding, well, anchor grounding. And so we decided on Saturday night to make our way to the outer bay, spend the night in preparation for leaving the following morning to catch a south wind north to Guaymas. The dolphins escorted us out along with their baby!

It took 4 hours to maneuver to the top of the bay and drop the hook. We realized it was Cinco De Mayo when we spied all the cars and people out on the beach partying. We toasted to rebellion and went to bed.
The next day we started the last 125 miles to Guaymas. We expected a two day run.

It was good to moving again. We both enjoy the passages, just learning some hard lessons about weather, being too far off shore, and learning how the Sea of Cortez behaves. In retrospect we are very happy with how EM performed. She
did great even with full main up. The swell didn’t phase her at all. She handled it all great. Better than us. And the engine didn’t even hiccup (knock on wood) once. How lucky are we?
So the wind doesn’t come up, the ocean is flat and so we motor and motor and motor, all day, all night, with a couple hours rest going 1.5 knots a couple times to give Helga a rest. And for me to check the fluid levels. I know what your are thinking, “Why not just sail?” A couple reasons, the first being we only had a few days of friendly wind before the North wind comes racing down the sea and two, we need to get to Guaymas to haul out. We don’t have the extra 4 days to float around right now. Next year maybe.
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Amazing sunsets and sunrises so a selfie was in order.
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This whole time we don’t see another cruiser. It’s been 7 days since we’ve seen anyone. We don’t mind but it is isolated. Dolphins swim with us for hours, turtles float by, the water is now more turquoise and clear. I take a swim from a line tied to the boat to cool off. I could swim faster than we are moving.
We see a pod of hundreds of dolphins in the distance swimming by and then dozens of rays jumping out of the water and doing belly flops. Everyone is playing.
We MADE IT!!!
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This is the reason I’ve gained 20pds. The danishes, oh the danishes.
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EM on the left.
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Then we round the point into the Guaymas bay and while I’m napping Shay sees at least 8 or 9 different occasions of Hammerhead sharks jumping out of the water. There is no mistaking the outline of a shark. Which is when the depth sounder stops working.
So I start checking all the connections but everything seems to work. We need to check the transducer under the hull. There is a wheel there that spins and bounces waves off the bottom to tell us the depth. It can only be accessed under the hull. When I announce this we both look at each other and say, “‘I’m not going in, what about the sharks?!”
After debating this a few minutes Shay offers to go first and so we head into the wind (there is finally wind now, of course), Shay strips down, dons her mask and over the side she slips. We rig up a line and for the next 20 minutes she uses a
brush to clean out the barnacles. Nothing changes. And no sharks appear. We change places and over the side I go. It’s beautiful and blue and spooky too.
I find the transducer and notice that Shay perfectly cleaned the thru hull next to the transducer. So I get to work on the transducer, I can’t even find it its so encrusted. 10 dives later and I can feel the wheel, another 10 dives and it is moving. Another few and I’ve got the wheel mostly free. Shay says its still not working but i’m done. I crawl back aboard, rinse off and we turn back toward Guaymas.

Guaymas harbor is very very shallow. Where we are headed is 4- 9ft deep. We draw 7 feet so you do the math. As I’m considering if we should get a lead line made up to manually check the depth or just anchor someplace so I can dive some more, Shay calls out that the sounder just started working. Shay credits this to her threats of throwing the depth sounder overboard. Whoot Whoot!
So onward toward Guaymas harbor we sail. That afternoon we make it to Marina Fonatur and take showers.
The next night we leave via overnight bus to pick up our van in Manzanillo. After visiting with BULA, staying the night in Los Mochis (The crime capital of the state, my mother tells me) being pulled over by a cop who takes pity on us and sends us on our way after giving us excellent hotel and restaurant tips, we arrive back in Guaymas, provision, and as I am doing the engine check I notice that the alternator bracket is broken. Damn it. We were going to leave tomorrow for a much needed rest break before haul out. Now we have to hunt down someone to make a new bracket. Living the dream.
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