Guaymas, Mexico - December 14, 2018

Boat Yard Jail

A trifecta of events conspired against us last week. We were trying to live aboard while fixing a diesel leak that made sleeping in the V-berth impossible. So we resorted to sleeping in the back of the truck.
Not so bad, however, the middle of the night pee bucket, and red dust covering everything was not fun, but it was doable for a couple nights. Then the yard lost power. And the water ran out. (That's a thing here)
So cooking was neigh impossible, or doing most any of the boat chores we were working on. Since we had removed all our V-berth cushions to the cockpit to air out, along with a plethora of diesel smelling boat gear, our ability to find a seat below, or in the cockpit was frustrating.
But still we persevered. Grumpily, but we were determined to stick it out.
Then the music at 3am started. Not just your typical Mexican music wafting from the yard next door, but loud speaker, 50 decibel music, from the workers over the yard wall. Even thru my pair of ear plugs the noise was incredible. This lasted till 5am. I think they were trying to keep themselves awake while they worked, but this also kept awake anyone within a quarter mile.
Then the midnight plastic burning started. Not a healthy smoke to be breathing when you are camped in your truck bed and you need to leave the tail gate down to accommodate your 6ft wife. Waking up coughing is definitely not fun.
Then it rained. Hard. Thunder and lightening, river running thru the yard, hard.
Shay woke up with wet feet and since I had buried myself in the salon in the hopes of being insulated against the music a little, I kept the fans going all night to disperse the diesel fumes as much as possible.
I woke up to a fan spitting water on me and found everything in the cockpit that was airing out soaked. We spent the morning trying to get the sun onto the cushions and boat gear.

This is when we broke out.
I found a casita in Guaymas, a few minutes away in a very Mexican neighborhood and that afternoon we drove over and booked it for a month.
Life is much improved now.
We have a kitchen and a shower that sometimes has hot water, we have dry beds, the plastic burning is minimal, plus we have doors and windows that shut. Quite the step up!
But really, this casita is very pleasant and peaceful most of the time.
The big plus is the ability to show up at the yard rested and fed and ready to work, and then to leave the work (and not spend another hour cleaning up to make a workable galley and resting place), go home, shower and make dinner. We also have Wifi! Any cruiser will tell you this is of paramount importance. (YouTube how-to video's, and kindle downloads for nightly entertainment.)

For a moment we both felt we had failed the cruiser boat yard challenge. But 1) we will be in the yard for a long time not just a few days, and 2) Shay injured her shoulder, probably a torn rotator cuff and we were not able to take care of it adequately (no ice or heat on the boat), and 3) eating healthy aboard was proving impossible, and lastly, it was either this or walk away from the boat. We both shared visions of setting Eileen May on fire, (but she's concrete), sinking her (but she's on land), or posting a for sale sign on her bow and walking away.


I'm remembering again why cruisers drink so much.
Alas, we are still plugging away at projects. Many have to be done now, before we can splash her. And since so many people are asking "what do you have to do that takes so long?" I will list some of them for you. Keep in mind, ANYTHING on a boat takes 4-7x's as long as you would expect.

Replace diesel vent hosing and return V-berth to its proper state - Check!
Clean main bilge - Check!
Install Xantrex Link2000 Remote panel replacement - Check!
Replace frozen seacock in head - Check (Shay got it unfrozen!)
Remove head hoses
Install new head hoses
Install water filter and hoses under sink
Replace front seal on transmission
Check all batteries and figure out if they are dead, or able to be revived (my scariest project) then figure out what to do next - after watching some YouTube videos.
Check engine and install impeller, hoses and check alternator ground
Check instrument panel
Replace pencil zinc on heat exchanger
Test engine
Test transmission, somehow, before launch
Check hydraulic steering
Check exhaust elbow
Drill into weeping areas on bottom
Sand bottom
Repair holes
Coal tar on bottom
Paint bottom
Paint prop
Install new zincs on prop and rudder
Find a welder that can repair our swim ladder, make a gaff, and create a boom attachment plate for the vang
Find someone to replace the leaking valve on propane tank
Unpack remaining boat crap
Fix steering, anchor and bow lights
Install new navigation lights
Install new bow roller bolt
Install running rigging
Check spreaders
Replace the Garmin transducer
Check windlass
Get at least the jib on
Learn how to tune the rigging and then do it
Prep for splashing

This will hopefully get us to the marina where we can begin phase 2.

I don't feel better after writing this list.
Pray for us.

December 8, 2018, Guaymas, MX

We keep reminding ourselves that we purposely chose this lifestyle.

Right now, it’s a just plain HARD lifestyle. Living in a boat yard in the dessert, on a boat 20 feet high.



It took us almost 2 weeks to travel to Mexico, but we took the windy route to Guaymas. First stopping to visit Shay’s family in northern California, then we drove thru Yosemite and made our way to Surprise, Arizona to visit Victoria at a senior park. Which was a nice break. We hiked the dessert and played BINGO and Shay has decided that since they have a humoungous wood shop that she could live at Happy Trails Retirement Village happily. 

We drove south to the Organ Pipe Cactus Monument dessert area to camp before crossing over the border and it was very pretty. We are starting to be able to ID the dessert plants. I would love to see all the cactus flowers in the spring.

We crossed the border 5 days ago. It was fairly painless and we didn’t have any “education fee” this time. Plus we are now one step closer to receiving our residency cards.

Since then we have been staying in AirBnB’s while we make the boat livable. When we first showed up at the yard we couldn’t get into the boat as the companionway lock did not match our key. We had a neighbor grind off the lock for us. (We latter found the correct key inside the boat in a drawer.)We were greeted by diesel and mold fumes wafting out from below. It was so bad we coldn’t stay below more than a few minutes at a time. We took turns going below to open up hatches. That and the inch of red dessert dust on every surface outside made for a not so great welcome back.

Every surface below had mold covering it, and it took 3 days to get the majority of it cleaned up and the diesel fumes out. Plus, there was 2 feet of water in the bilge that needed extracting. 

I can’t even talk about the possibility that the batteries are dead, but we need to wait a few more days before we know. 

Since we don’t have eleciricy yet, or water, other than from a hose strung up the side of the boat, cleaning is laborious. Everything below, all the sails, and cushions, and gear had to brought out, aired out, cleaned, or left to dry in the sun so we could get to all the cupboards, ceiling and lockers. By the third day we were so beat up with hauling, ladder climbing and cleaning it was hard to get out of bed. My thigh muscles burned from all the ladder ups and downs, (remember there is no working head, and all our belongings and gear are either in the truck, or in the tent we set up to store the gear until we could bring it aboard.) Ladders suck. 

Today we finally started unpacking and she’s starting to look habital. The galley is almost ready, we just need propane and water and electricity.

We’ll install the water system soon and until then probably dish clean up off the tail gate of the truck. (And you thought this was romantic). 

The electricity is mostly dependant on the batteries working since one 15amp extension cord for refer, lights, fans, appliances, and charging is not fun. 

A couple more days and fingers crossed we can start the project list. I have to admit that today I came close to wanting to give up. Everyting got very overwhelming and when I went to unpack my bags I thought I lost $55,000 pesos. 

But after finding the pesos at the BnB and realizing that Mercury is in retrograde, I’m willing to push on in hope that life on the hard gets a little easier, since this is where we live for the next month. 

Living the Dream

Barra de Navidad, January 2018

We are hanging in the Barra Lagoon now. We have been in and out of the marina, towed from the channel leading to the bay, actually motored into the bay and back twice. That’s it. 

The rest of the time we are fixing the engine, working on projects and hunting down parts.

Some parts come by boaters from the US, some found in the odd, hidden (from us) shop, or brought down by friends when visiting. 

The list of accomplishments is long but consisit of electrical, plumbing, mechanical projects, NOT sailing, cruising, snorkeling and paddleboarding.

However, Barra is truly paradise, so our frustrations are mitigated by this fact, and since we are in the sun, warm and eat produce all day we try not to complain too much. Although I do understand now why cruisers drink so. We’e definitely noticed an increase in tequila consumption. (We buy it buy the gallon now)

The constant frustration with fixing things without the right part, tool or knowhow can get old. Some days drinking is the alternative to selling the boat, or beaching it and buying a ticket home. 

The biggest news this week is that we finally have drinkable water at the faucet. (HUGE! life changer.) And the diesel fumes in the V-berth are gone along with all the old ABS pipe the PO (previous owner) installed in leiu of fuel lines. The PO has another name also, I’m sure you can use your imagination as to what THAT is.

Once we have a few engine issues taken care of - not sure when or how that will happen yet - we can leave to other anchorages and maybe actually raise the sails.

Barra de Navidad, Mexico - March, 2017

We are hanging in the Barra Lagoon now. We have been in and out of the marina, towed from the channel leading to the bay, actually motored into the bay and back twice. That’s it.
The rest of the time we are fixing the engine, working on projects and hunting down parts.
Some parts come by boaters from the US, some found in the odd, hidden (from us) shop, or brought down by friends when visiting.
The list of accomplishments is long but consisit of electrical, plumbing, mechanical projects, NOT sailing, cruising, snorkeling and paddleboarding.
However, Barra is truly paradise, so our frustrations are mitigated by this fact, and since we are in the sun, warm and eat produce all day we try not to complain too much. Although I do understand now why cruisers drink so. We’e definitely noticed an increase in tequila consumption. (We buy it buy the gallon now)
The constant frustration with fixing things without the right part, tool or knowhow can get old. Some days a shot of tequilla is the alternative to selling the boat, or beaching it and buying a ticket home.
The biggest news this week is that we finally have drinkable water at the faucet. (HUGE! life changer.) And the diesel fumes in the V-berth are gone along with all the old ABS pipe the PO (previous owner) installed in leiu of fuel lines. The PO has another name also, I’m sure you can use your imagination as to what THAT is.
Once we have a few engine issues taken care of - not sure when or how that will happen yet - we can leave to other anchorages and maybe actually raise the sails.
Peeps have been asking for short videos. What would you like to see or know? Ask us a question and we’ll try to answer.
Hugs to all of you! Yona and Shay